A Backpacker’s Guide To The Perhentian Islands, Malaysia
- Martha Pillin
- Jan 14
- 9 min read
Alright, let’s talk about the Perhentians - two little islands off Malaysia’s coast that are basically paradise. Think clear blue water, soft sand, and total chill vibes. There’s Perhentian Kecil (for the budget backpacker crew) and Perhentian Besar (if you’re feeling fancy or just need a break from dorm life).
It’s the kind of place where your biggest decision is whether to snorkel with turtles or nap in a hammock. Nights? They’re all about cheap drinks, beach bonfires, and swapping travel stories. Sound good? Let’s get you there!
Travelling Malaysia? Read The Ultimate Backpacking Guide to Malaysia
When To Visit The Perhentian Islands, Malaysia
Timing is everything! These islands aren’t year-round destinations, thanks to Malaysia’s tropical monsoon vibes
Best Time to Go: March to October
This is when the islands truly shine. The skies are clear, the water’s calm, and it’s perfect for diving, snorkelling, or just lazing on the beach. July and August are the busiest months, so expect more travellers and higher prices.
Avoid: November to February
Monsoon season hits hard, with heavy rain, rough seas, and most accommodations and dive shops shutting down completely. Boats stop running, so unless you’re into stormy weather and deserted vibes, skip this time of year.
If you want the sweet spot, aim for March to May or September to early October. These months have great weather, fewer crowds, and still plenty of action.
How to Get to the Perhentian Islands
Step 1: Get To Kuala Besut
The first step to getting to the Perhentian Islands is to get yourself to Kuala Besut Jetty. This is the main gateway to the islands. You can get here from most major cities in Malaysia by either plane, bus, train or taxi/grab.
By Plane + Bus
The quickest way to get to Kuala Besut is by taking a flight to the nearest airport in Kota Bharu and then taking a bus or Grab ride to the jetty.
You can catch a domestic flight to Kota Bharu from Kuala Lumpur and most major cities in Malaysia which takes about 1 hour. AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines offer budget-friendly options. Once you have landed in Kota Bharu take a local bus from the Kota Bharu Bus Terminal (also known as MPKB). Look for buses heading to Kuala Besut or Jerteh. If the bus drops you at Jerteh you will then need to take a Grab or taxi to Kuala Besut.
The journey from Kota Bharu to Kuala Besut/Jerteh takes 1.5 - 2 hours and tickets cost around 10-15 MYR (£2 - £3). Alternatively, if you’re in a rush and have the budget, you can take a Grab or taxi directly from the airport to the jetty (around 70-100 MYR).
By Bus
If you’re traveling on a smaller budget or just enjoy the backpacker way of slow travel, buses are a solid option to reach Kuala Besut. They’re cheap, reliable, and a great way to see more of Malaysia’s countryside.
From Kuala Lumpur (KL)
Duration: 8 - 9 hours
Cost: Around 40-50 MYR (£7 - £9)
Head to Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS), KL’s main long-distance bus terminal. Look for buses to Kuala Besut or Jerteh (the nearest town, about 20 minutes from the jetty). Some buses drop you directly at Kuala Besut Jetty, while others stop at Jerteh, where you’ll need to grab a short taxi ride (about 30 - 60 MYR). Popular companies like Perdana Express and Mahligai Express operate this route. Buses usually depart late at night so you can arrive early in the morning, perfect for catching a boat to the islands.
Book a ticket in advance through BusOnlineTicket.com or RedBus
From Penang (George Town)
Duration: 7 - 8 hours
Cost: Around 50 - 60 MYR (£9 - £11)
Buses from Penang leave from Sungai Nibong Bus Terminal or Penang Central in Butterworth. Overnight buses are the best option, saving you the hassle of daytime travel and accommodation for the night.
Book a ticket in advance through BusOnlineTicket.com or RedBus
From Kuala Terengganu
Duration: 2 - 3 hours
Cost: Around 15 - 30 MYR (£3 - £6)
Buses leave from the Kuala Terengganu Bus Terminal (MBKT). Ask for one heading to Jerteh or Kuala Besut. If your bus stops at Jerteh, you’ll need a taxi for the final stretch to the jetty.
Book a ticket in advance through BusOnlineTicket.com or RedBus
Travel Tips
Use platforms like RedBus, Easybook, or BusOnlineTicket to secure your seat in advance, especially during peak season. You can also buy tickets directly at bus terminals, but availability may be limited, especially for overnight routes. Aim for overnight buses from further cities (KL or Penang) to save time and arrive early enough for a morning boat to the islands.
Step 2: Catch the Ferry to the Islands
From Kuala Besut Jetty, hop on a speedboat to the Perhentians.
Cost: Tickets cost around 35 - 40 MYR (£6 - £7) one way or 70 MYR (£12) return.
Duration: The ride takes 30 - 40 minutes, depending on the weather and sea conditions.
Timing: Boats usually run on the hour between 8 AM and 5 PM, so plan to arrive at the jetty early enough to catch the last boat.
Perhentian Kecil
Boats typically drop you at Long Beach (for the party and diving vibes) or Coral Bay (for a quieter scene). Let the boat crew know where you’re staying, and they’ll drop you at the closest spot.
Perhentian Besar
Boats make stops at the main beaches and resorts. Same deal - just let them know your destination.
Book a ferry ticket in advance through BusOnlineTicket.com or purchase a ticket at the ferry terminal.
Getting Around the Perhentian Islands
1. On Foot
Most places on the islands can be reached by walking.
Kecil: You can hike between Long Beach and Coral Bay in about 10-15 minutes on a well-trodden jungle path. Other areas may require a bit more effort but are generally doable for anyone reasonably fit.
Besar: Larger and more spread out, but walking is still a primary mode of transport between beaches and accommodations.
2. Water Taxis
The main way to travel between beaches or islands is by water taxi - a small boat that’s quick, fun, and a little bumpy. Prices depend on distance, ranging from 10 - 25 MYR (£2 - £5) per trip. For longer trips (like between islands), expect to pay more.
Where to Find Them: Water taxis are easy to spot - they’re parked along the beaches or cruising the coastline. Just flag one down or ask your accommodation to arrange one. Always confirm the price before hopping on, and note that night trips can be pricier.
3. Snorkeling or Diving Tours
These aren’t strictly for “getting around,” but many snorkelling or diving trips double as a way to explore different parts of the islands you might not reach otherwise. Some tours will let you hop off at other beaches after a session.
There are no cars or motorbikes on either island - one of the reasons the Perhentians are so peaceful.
Where To Stay On The Perhenthian Islands
Perhentian Kecil has many budget accommodations around Long Beach and Coral Bay, however many of the cheaper stays, you cannot book a room via Booking.com - you will need to phone them or just show up to make a reservation. Perhentian Besar also has budget stays, however there are more mid-high range places to stay.
If you plan on diving on the islands, it is worth contacting your chosen dive shop as they often have affordable accommodation options. I booked my stay with Turtle Bay Divers - they organised the dive package as well as my accommodation (with free breakfast!).
Below are a few places I recommend:
Juita Glamping (Perhentian Besar)
OceanBoys Inn (Perhentian Kecil)
Abdul’s Chalet (Perhentian Besar)
Things To Do On the Perhentian Islands
1. Diving Adventures
The Perhentians are a diver’s dream and is known as one of the cheapest places worldwide to obtain your Open Water qualification. That was why I came here! I arrived with the goal of breaking my fear of deep water, and left with 2 PADI qualifications. I spent 4 days with Turtle Bay Divers completing my PADI Open Water Dive Course (£175) and then decided to stay and complete my PADI Advanced Open Water qualification (£157). It was by far one of the highlights of my time in Malaysia and to this day is home to some of my favourite dive sites.
Dive sites here are teeming with turtles, reef sharks, and schools of fish. You can also explore shipwrecks like the famous Sugar Wreck, which is a must-visit for wreck diving enthusiasts.
Popular Dive Sites:
Temple of the Sea: A pinnacle dive surrounded by colourful marine life.
Shark Point: Perfect for spotting blacktip reef sharks.
T3 (Terumbu Tiga): Great for underwater caves and boulders.
Best Dive Shops:
Turtle Bay Divers (Kecil)
2. Snorkelling Fun
Snorkelling here is just as exciting as diving! Many snorkelling spots are accessible right from the beach, so no experience is needed.
Popular Snorkelling Spots:
Turtle Point: Swim alongside majestic green sea turtles.
Shark Point: Ideal for spotting (harmless!) baby blacktip reef sharks.
Coral Garden: A vibrant reef with stunning corals and tropical fish.
Bring a reusable water bottle, reef-safe sunscreen, and your own snorkel gear if you have it! You can also join half-day snorkelling tours (40-60 MYR/£7-£10) that take you to multiple locations.
3. Jungle Trekking
For a break from the water, lace up your shoes and explore the islands’ lush jungles.
Kecil: Long Beach to Coral Bay: A short 10-15 minute walk through the jungle.
Besar: Flora Bay to Teluk Dalam: A longer trek through dense greenery, offering a chance to spot monitor lizards, monkeys, and tropical birds.
Bring plenty of water and mosquito repellent, and start early to avoid the midday heat.
4. Sunset Watching
Nothing beats ending your day with a picture-perfect sunset. Coral Bay is the best spot on Kecil and Romantic Beach is the best on Besar.
5. Kayaking
Rent a kayak and paddle around the crystal-clear waters at your own pace. You can reach hidden beaches and coves that aren’t accessible by foot or water taxi.
6. Island Hopping
Explore both Kecil and Besar, as well as smaller surrounding islands like Rawa and Serenggeh. Hire a water taxi or join an island-hopping tour for about 80-120 MYR (£14-£22).
7. Beach Hopping
Each beach has its own vibe. Spend a day exploring!
Kecil Beaches:
Long Beach: Lively with bars, hostels, and a buzzing backpacker vibe.
Coral Bay: Quieter, great for sunsets.
Besar Beaches:
Tuna Bay: Calm and family-friendly.
Romantic Beach: Secluded and peaceful.
8. Enjoy Fresh Seafood BBQs
Seafood BBQs are a must-try dinner experience! Restaurants line the beaches every evening, grilling up fresh catches of the day like snapper, squid, and prawns.
Where to Go: Ombak Café (Kecil) and Mama’s Place (Besar).
Cost: BBQ sets usually include rice, salad, and a drink for 20-40 MYR (£4-£7).
9. Relax and Unplug
With limited Wi-Fi and no big resorts, the islands are perfect for unwinding. Bring a book, lie on the beach, and soak up the simple island life.
10. Party (or Chill) at Long Beach
If you’re on Kecil and looking for nightlife, Long Beach has fire shows, bars, and beach parties. For something quieter, head to Coral Bay or Besar for a relaxed evening.
Where To Eat and Drink
Chill Out Perhentian (Perhentian Kecil)
Beachfront café with a mix of local and Western dishes. Perfect for unwinding with a drink.
Belinda Café (Perhentian Kecil)
Cozy spot serving delicious local cuisine and fresh seafood in a friendly, beachside setting.
Ombak Café (Perhentian Kecil)
Great sunset views, a diverse menu (Malaysian and Western), and fun movie nights.
Ewan’s Café (Perhentian Kecil)
Known for generous portions, affordable prices, and tasty local food.
Mama’s Place (Perhentian Besar)
Simple beachfront eatery with fresh seafood and authentic Malay dishes.
The Barat Restaurant (Perhentian Besar)
A more upscale option offering seafood BBQs, Western meals, and a chilled-out vibe.
D’Rock Garden Bar (Perhentian Kecil)
Beachside bar with cocktails and a social atmosphere, perfect for backpackers.
Tips for Travelling The Perhentian Islands
The Perhentian Islands are a backpacker’s paradise, but they’re also rustic and off the beaten path. Here’s some advice to make the most of your trip:
No ATMs
There are no ATMs on the islands. Withdraw plenty of cash before you arrive. The jetty at Kuala Besut has ATMs if you forget. Malaysian Ringgit (MYR) is the only accepted currency.
Pack Smart
Reef-safe sunscreen (the sun here is intense, and protecting the coral is vital).
A dry bag to keep your belongings safe during boat rides or water activities.
Lightweight clothing and sturdy sandals for jungle trekking.
A reusable water bottle (most hostels and restaurants offer water refills).
Mosquito repellent — trust me, you’ll need it.
Tickets
Keep your return boat ticket handy, or you can buy one on the islands when you’re ready to leave.
Respect the Environment
These islands are part of a marine park, so eco-conscious behavior is key. Avoid stepping on corals while snorkelling or diving, don’t litter and avoid single-use plastics as much as possible.
Be Prepared for Basic Amenities
Many accommodations are simple and no-frills. Wi-Fi is spotty, and not all hostels have air conditioning. Be ready to embrace the island’s laid-back, rustic charm.
Be Flexible with Your Schedule
Boat rides to and from the islands can be delayed due to weather or other factors, so don’t plan tight connections when leaving the islands..
Be Ready for Island Time
Things run slowly here. Meals may take longer, shops open late, and transport can be unpredictable. Relax and embrace the laid-back vibe!
Learn Some Basics in Malay
Locals appreciate it when you try to speak Malay. Here are a few handy phrases:
“Terima kasih” = Thank you
“Berapa harga?” = How much?
“Air kosong” = Plain water
“Apa khabar?” = How are you?
Travelling Malaysia? Read The Ultimate Backpacking Guide to Malaysia
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