A Backpacker’s Guide To Nong Khiaw, Laos
- Martha Pillin
- Dec 30, 2024
- 13 min read
Updated: Mar 5
Tucked away along the Nam Ou River and surrounded by epic limestone mountains, Nong Khiaw feels like one of those secret spots you just have to share with your friends. It’s peaceful, beautiful, and the kind of place that lets you truly unwind. You can go hiking, swim in rivers, take fishing lesson with a local guide or just relax and take in the views here So if you’re ready to slow down and take in the quiet beauty of Laos, keep reading – here’s the lowdown on Nong Khiaw.
Travelling Laos? Read: The Ultimate Backpacking Guide To Laos
When To Visit Nong Khiaw
Nong Khiaw is a place that’s beautiful year-round, but the best time to visit really depends on what kind of experience you’re after:
November to February – The Dry Season
If you’re looking for perfect weather for hiking, trekking, and exploring, the dry season is your sweet spot. The temperatures are cooler (around 20–25°C), which makes outdoor activities much more enjoyable. Plus, the skies are mostly clear, so you’ll get those epic views of the mountains and the river. This is the peak tourist season, so you’ll find more backpackers, but it’s still pretty laid-back.
March to May – The Shoulder Season
I visited Nong Khiaw in April and this is definitely when the weather starts to heat up. Temperatures often push 30°C, so it can feel a bit sticky. However, the good news is that this is when the crowds thin out, and you’ll have a bit more peace and quiet to enjoy the place. If you’re okay with the heat and don’t mind a quieter vibe, this is a good time to visit for a more relaxed experience.
June to October – The Rainy Season
The rainy season is when the landscape comes to life. The mountains are lush and green, and the waterfalls are in full flow, making it perfect if you love nature at its most vibrant. However, expect some heavy downpours, especially in July and August, so be prepared for muddy trails and possibly fewer activities. If you’re up for a more adventurous experience and don’t mind getting wet, this is a fantastic time to see Nong Khiaw’s natural beauty at its peak. Plus, it’s the quietest time of the year, so you’ll get to experience the place in peace.
How To Get To Nong Khiaw
Getting to Nong Khiaw isn’t the easiest journey, but the reward is worth it. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to get there, whether you’re coming from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, or another part of Laos:
1. From Luang Prabang (Most Popular Route)
Luang Prabang is the most common starting point for travellers heading to Nong Khiaw, and it’s about a 3-4 hour journey by bus or minivan.
By Bus or Minivan
Travel Time: 3–4 hours
How to Get There: You can easily catch a bus or minivan from the main bus station in Luang Prabang. Several companies run daily services to Nong Khiaw, usually leaving in the morning around 9 AM or 10 AM. The journey takes you along scenic mountain roads, so the ride is pretty stunning, though a bit bumpy.
Cost: Around 60,000-80,000 Kip (approximately £5–7) for a bus. Minivans can be a little more expensive but are faster.
Tickets: You can buy tickets at the bus station or through travel agencies in town. Agencies like Green Discovery Laos, Lao Travel, and Vietravel often offer bus ticket services. These agencies usually have options for booking in advance.
You can book in advance through:
By Private Taxi or Minivan
If you want more comfort and flexibility, you can hire a private taxi or minivan, which will cost more but allow you to choose your departure time. Prices range from 400,000–500,000 Kip (£30–40), depending on how many people are sharing the ride.
2. From Vientiane
The distance from Vientiane to Nong Khiaw is about 300 kilometers (186 miles), so this journey will take a bit longer.
By Bus or Minivan
Travel Time: 7–9 hours
How to Get There: You can catch a bus or minivan from the Southern Bus Station (also known as the Vientiane Bus Terminal). Minivans leave early in the morning (around 7 AM), and buses are generally available throughout the day.
Cost: Buses are cheaper, around 80,000–100,000 Kip (£7–8). Minivans usually cost 150,000–200,000 Kip (£12–16).
Tickets: Tickets are available at the bus station or through agencies in Vientiane. Vientiane Travel or Sabaidee Tours, which also offer advanced bookings for buses heading to northern Laos.
You can book in advance through:
By Private Taxi
For a more comfortable, faster option, you can hire a private taxi. This option is expensive, but if you’re with a group, it can be more cost-effective. Expect to pay around 1,000,000 Kip (£80).
3. From Other Destinations in Laos
From Phongsali: If you’re coming from the northern regions like Phongsali, buses and minivans are available. The journey is quite long and bumpy, and it takes around 10–12 hours to reach Nong Khiaw.
From Muang Khua: If you’re coming from Muang Khua (a smaller town to the north), you can take a boat or minivan. The boat trip is scenic, taking about 3 hours along the Nam Ou River.
4. By Boat
One of the more adventurous ways to get to Nong Khiaw is by boat along the Nam Ou River. This option is more time-consuming but offers some of the most beautiful views in Laos.
By Boat from Muang Khua
Travel Time: 3–4 hours
How to Get There: The boat ride from Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw is a fantastic way to experience the stunning landscapes of northern Laos. Boats depart regularly from the small pier in Muang Khua, but schedules are subject to weather conditions and water levels.
Cost: Around 100,000–150,000 Kip (£8–12) per person.
Note: This route is only available during the dry season, as the river can be too shallow during the rainy months.
When You Arrive in Nong Khiaw
Once you arrive, you’ll typically be dropped off in the town centre, which is small and easy to navigate on foot. Most guesthouses, cafes, and restaurants are located along the main road and the river, so it’s a good idea to check in and get settled before exploring.
Getting Around Nong Khiaw
Getting around Nong Khiaw is pretty easy and laid-back, as it’s a small village, and most places of interest are within walking distance. However, there are still a few options if you want to explore the surrounding areas or need a bit more convenience. Here’s how to get around:
1. On Foot
Nong Khiaw is small, and most of the town’s attractions are within walking distance, especially along the main road and the riverbank. Walking is the best way to explore the village, soak in the scenery, and discover hidden spots like local cafes, shops, and peaceful river views.
2. By Bicycle
Bikes are available for rent from most guesthouses, hotels, or rental shops. Renting a bicycle is a great way to explore the surrounding countryside, nearby villages, or to take a leisurely ride along the river.
Cost: Around 20,000–30,000 Kip (£1.60–2.50) per day for a standard bike.
3. By Motorbike
If you’re feeling more adventurous or want to explore farther afield, you can rent a motorbike. Some guesthouses and rental shops in Nong Khiaw offer motorbike rentals. This gives you the freedom to visit nearby areas like the stunning Pha Tok Caves or the remote Muang Ngoi village, which is only accessible by boat or a longer trek. The roads can be winding and hilly, so make sure you’re comfortable
Cost: Around 50,000–80,000 Kip (£4–6) per day.
4. By Tuk-Tuk
While the town is small, tuk-tuks are available for short rides, especially if you’re heading to areas outside the village or if you’re traveling with a group. They can take you to nearby attractions, villages, or transport you back to the bus station if needed. It’s a fun and relaxed way to get around, but tuk-tuks in Nong Khiaw are fewer than in larger cities, so it’s best to ask your accommodation or locals to arrange one.
Cost: Typically around 40,000–60,000 Kip (£3–5) for a short ride, depending on the distance.
5. By Boat
Nong Khiaw is located along the Nam Ou River, and boat trips are a great way to see the landscape from a different perspective. Some boat services can take you to nearby villages like Muang Ngoi or to explore the river and surrounding caves.
Cost: Boat rides to nearby villages typically cost around 100,000–150,000 Kip (£8–12) per person for a one-way trip.
6. By Local Transport (Shared Minivans or Songthaews)
If you’re heading to a nearby town or village, shared minivans or songthaews (pick-up trucks with benches in the back) can be an affordable way to get there. They are less common in the village but are available for longer trips to places like Muang Khua or Luang Prabang.
Cost: Prices vary depending on distance, but expect to pay around 100,000–150,000 Kip (£8–12) per person for a ride to nearby towns.
7. By Taxi (Private or Shared)
If you need to get to a far-off destination and don’t want to drive yourself, private taxis can be hired, though they are more expensive than other forms of transport.
Cost: A private taxi from Nong Khiaw to nearby towns or attractions can cost upwards of 200,000 Kip (£16+), depending on the distance.
Things To Do In Nong Khiaw, Laos
1. Hike to the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint
The Nong Khiaw viewpoint offers one of the most iconic views of the village and its surrounding limestone peaks. The hike up is fairly steep but definitely worth it for the panoramic vistas.
Travel Tip
Start early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
2. Visit the Pha Tok Caves
The Pha Tok Caves are a hidden gem in Nong Khiaw, with historical significance and incredible natural beauty. These caves were used as shelters by the locals during the Secret War in the 1960s. It is a fascinating insight into Laos’ history, the caves are a series of natural and man-made caves tucked in the mountainside. You’ll learn about their role during wartime while also enjoying a peaceful escape surrounded by nature.
How to Get There: The caves are located around 5 km outside of the town. You can hike to them or take a tuk-tuk.
Travel Tip
Bring a guide if you want to learn more about the history of the caves. You can arrange one through local guesthouses.
3. Explore the Nam Ou River
The Nam Ou River flows through Nong Khiaw, and taking a boat ride along the river is one of the best ways to see the surrounding countryside and small villages. You’ll pass through lush landscapes, watch local fishermen, and visit small riverside villages like Muang Ngoi. The river also offers fantastic views of the mountains that surround the town.
You can arrange boat trips through your guesthouse or local tour operators. A day trip to Muang Ngoi, a peaceful village that’s only accessible by boat, is highly recommended.
4. Visit Muang Ngoi
Muang Ngoi is a quiet, remote village that’s a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of touristy spots. It’s accessible only by boat, making the journey to get there feel even more special. When you get there you can explore the small wooden bungalows and riverside cafes. You can also visit nearby caves, hike to local viewpoints, or just enjoy the laid-back vibe.
Travel Tip
Spend at least one night in Muang Ngoi to fully experience its charm. There are a few guesthouses that cater to backpackers.
5. Trek to the Tham Kang Cave
Another cave worth checking out is the Tham Kang Cave, located about 7 km outside of Nong Khiaw. The trek to the cave is beautiful and a bit more off-the-beaten-path compared to Pha Tok. This is a peaceful trek through the jungle, where you’ll see traditional bamboo huts and local farming practices. The cave itself is impressive and offers a unique experience compared to the more popular tourist spots.
Difficulty: I would say this is a moderate hike, so be prepared for some uphill sections and uneven terrain.
6. Visit the Local Market
Nong Khiaw has a small local market that takes place every morning, selling fresh produce, local snacks, and handmade goods. It’s a great place to get a feel for local life. You’ll find everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to handmade baskets and clothing. It’s a perfect spot for picking up some souvenirs or grabbing a snack.
7. Try the Local Cuisine
Nong Khiaw has several small, family-run restaurants where you can sample traditional Laotian dishes.
What to Expect: Fresh fish from the Nam Ou River, sticky rice, and dishes like larb (minced meat salad), khao soi (noodle soup), and grilled meats. The food here is simple but packed with flavour.
Travel Tip
Many of the local restaurants will cater to dietary preferences (vegetarian, vegan, etc.), so don’t be afraid to ask for something specific.
8. Fishing and Kayaking Tour
One of the most unique and scenic ways to experience Nong Khiaw is through a fishing and kayaking tour. This tour lets you paddle along the Nam Ou River, fish for your dinner, and enjoy the tranquility of the river and surrounding mountains.
Duration: Around 4-5 hours.
My Experience with Evergreen Adventure Tour
I booked onto a half-day fishing and kayaking tour with Evergreen Adventure Tour and it became one of the best travel experience's to date. It began with a scenic boat ride down the river stopping at spots where local fishermen often cast their nets. I then had a chance to try fishing for myself, using the same traditional methods. My local guide didn’t speak any English, so we communicated by writing in the sand and using a-lot of hand gestures. It turns out he was a great teacher because we managed to catch a fish! We then enjoyed a fresh, grilled fish meal on the riverbank, all prepared by the guide. Afterwards, we had the opportunity to kayak back down the river to Nong Khiaw. The calmness of the water made this a relaxing and unique way to glide through the mountains.
Later that evening we revisited the tour shop to say thank you for organising such an amazing experience and the shop owner invited us in to have a drink with him and his family. It was Laos New Year at the time so everyone was in good spirits and Lao Beer and whiskey were being handed out like water! They even offered us dishes of larb and khao soi.
This experience was one of the highlights of my trip to Loas and I would recommend it to anyone visiting Nong Khiaw that wants a hands on and fun insight into the Laos way of life. Evergreen Adventure Tour also offer a range of other tours like hiking to waterfalls, cooking classes, cultural tours and caving, so if you don’t fancy fishing there are plenty of other options.
I documented the entire Fishing Tour in Nong Khiaw in the video below:
9. Sunset River Cruise
If you want to experience Nong Khiaw’s beauty at a slower pace, consider taking a sunset river cruise. This is a perfect way to unwind after a day of adventures and catch the magical sunset over the Nam Ou River.
What to Expect: A relaxing boat ride during golden hour, with the sun setting behind the limestone peaks. You can also enjoy a light snack or drink while taking in the view.
Duration: 1-2 hours.
10. Cycling Tours
Cycling is another great way to explore the area around Nong Khiaw. You can join guided cycling tours that take you to local villages, rice fields, and scenic viewpoints, all while experiencing the local culture and daily life.
What to Expect: A mix of road cycling and off-road terrain, with opportunities to visit nearby villages and enjoy the stunning rural landscape.
Duration: Half-day or full-day tours.
11. Cultural Tours
If you’re interested in learning more about the culture and history of the region, cultural tours are available that focus on the traditions, crafts, and daily life of the people in and around Nong Khiaw.
What to Expect: Visits to local villages, where you’ll learn about local customs, traditional crafts, and the lifestyles of various ethnic groups. Some tours also include cooking classes or handicraft workshops.
Duration: Half-day or full-day tours.
Travel Tip
Be respectful of local customs and ask permission before taking photos of people.
11. 2 Day Jungle Trekking Tour
Nong Khiaw is a paradise for trekking enthusiasts, offering an opportunity to immerse yourself in dense jungles, remote villages, and awe-inspiring landscapes. A 2-day jungle trekking tour is one of the most rewarding experiences for those seeking adventure and cultural immersion.
The tour takes you deep into the jungle of Nong Khiaw and its surrounding countryside. Along the way, you stop to see remote villages inhabited by ethnic minority groups, swim in hidden waterfalls, and stay overnight in a local village homestay. The journey is guided by experienced locals who provide insights into the region’s culture, environment, and way of life.
Accommodation: The overnight stay is in a local family’s home. The facilities are basic, with mattresses on the floor, mosquito nets, and shared toilets. However, the experience is authentic and heartwarming, with the hosts often sharing stories or local customs.
Difficulty Level: I would say that the trek is moderate and suitable for those with a basic level of fitness. Expect around 5-6 hours of walking per day on uneven terrain, with some uphill climbs.
How to Book: Many guesthouses in Nong Khiaw can arrange this trek for you. Tour Operators like Evergreen Adventure Tour, Tiger Trail or Green Discovery offer reliable trekking packages.
Accommodation
Eco Farm Stay and Hostel
Room Types:
Simple private rooms and dorms with fans and shared or en-suite bathrooms, offering a rustic and eco-friendly experience.
Facilities:
Free Wi-Fi, on-site organic restaurant, laundry services, and opportunities to participate in farm activities like gardening and cooking.
Common Areas:
Relaxing outdoor spaces, communal lounge, and a garden area.
Cost:
Dorm beds from £5-£8, private rooms from £10-£20 per night.
Lamorn Guesthouse
Room Types:
Private rooms with fans or air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms, and comfortable furnishings.
Facilities:
Free Wi-Fi, laundry services, and assistance with booking tours and activities such as hiking and boat trips.
Common Areas:
Cozy outdoor seating area with views of the surrounding mountains and rivers.
Cost:
Private rooms from £10-£20 per night.
Meexai Guesthouse
Room Types:
Private rooms with fans or air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms, and simple furnishings. Some rooms feature balconies with scenic views.
Facilities:
Free Wi-Fi, laundry services, and tour assistance for activities like river cruises and hiking.
Common Areas:
Outdoor seating area and small garden space for relaxing.
Cost:
Private rooms from £8-£15 per night.
Arthith Guesthouse
Room Types:
Private rooms with fans or air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms, and balconies offering mountain or river views.
Facilities:
Free Wi-Fi, on-site restaurant serving local dishes, laundry services, and assistance with booking tours and activities.
Common Areas:
Outdoor seating area and riverside spaces perfect for relaxing and enjoying the scenery.
Cost:
Private rooms from £10-£20 per night.
Meexok and Amanda
Room Types:
Private rooms with fans or air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms, and balconies with mountain or river views.
Facilities:
Free Wi-Fi, restaurant serving local and Western dishes, bike rentals, and laundry services.
Common Areas:
Relaxing outdoor seating area and riverside spaces for enjoying the scenery.
Cost:
Private rooms from £10-£20 per night.
Places To Eat and Drink
Nong Khiaw has a laid-back vibe that extends to its food and drink scene. While it’s a small village, there are plenty of cozy eateries and riverside cafes offering delicious Laotian food, international dishes, and great views. Here’s a guide to some of the best places to eat and drink in Nong Khiaw:
Best Places to Eat in Nong Khiaw
Deen’s Indian Food – Authentic Indian curries and fresh naan served by the friendly owner.
Delilah’s Place – Backpacker hub with a mix of Lao and Western dishes, plus trivia nights.
Q Barbecue – Riverside spot with grilled fish, sticky rice, and stunning sunset views.
Alex Restaurant – Family-run eatery serving affordable and tasty Lao classics.
Coco Home Bar & Restaurant – Relaxed riverside café with excellent coconut curry and coffee.
Best Places to Drink in Nong Khiaw
Hive Bar – Social bar with Beerlao, cocktails, and occasional live music.
Bamboo Paradise – Chill riverside spot perfect for a Beerlao or fresh fruit shake.
Ning Ning Restaurant – A quiet spot for beer and drinks with a side of great Lao food.
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